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Billy's Back In Town

Barbeque with a Quebecois flare: music to our tastebuds.

BY DIANE HUDSON

"You've got to try the Poutines," says Uncle Billy's Jonathan St. Laurent, who provides French Canadian fare with a zesty twist at his new downtown Portland location at 653 Congress Street. "It's enormously popular," a melange of hand-cut fries and hearty beef gravy topped with salty curd cheese.

Also tantalizing: St. Laurent's splendid Buckwheat Crepe with Maine Shrimp and Mushrooms ($13.50), the Steak Frites, Grilled Skirt Steak, and Fries a la Francais ($13.50), or the classic Belgium inspired Moules Frites-mussels steamed in beer and garlic and served with wonderful fries and a tasty homemade mayonnaise.

During our visit, we couldn't resist the BBQ Ribs ($13.50), Piri Piri Chicken ($12), Haddock with Basil, Tomato, and Romano ($13.50), and Beef Brisket ($13.50).

The ribs here are tops, the sauce addicting. The melt-in-your-mouth beef brisket defies description: try it, if you're able to pass up braised lamb with polenta and mushroom ($13.50).

St. Laurent plans to cook lamb on the rotisserie soon, which should be an exquisite treat, judging by the wonderfully flavorful Piri Piri Chicken prepared this way. You get a half chicken with a spicy Portuguese hot sauce for only $12! Savor this with garlic or chili fries and you'll go out singing. Or stay right here at Billy's and sing. Music is a mainstay here, firing out of a mammoth jukebox or performed live by bluesy stoppers-by. "People just show up here and play," marvels St. Laurent, "like Curtis Oark on the keyboard with a stand-up bass, and we have blues on Thursday."

Uncle Billy's has a full bar, with a good sampling of beer and wine. We enjoyed a smooth tasting BV Merlot as well as the popular Goats Do Roam red. The De Koninck is "a well-rounded medium-bodied Lambie beer with a dry finish-great with Moules Frites." Budweiser and Pabst Blue Ribbon? Natch, my friend.

St. Laurent's desserts, like his BBQ take no prisoners and include his legendary Death by Chocolate Sundae ($4.50), Chocolate Cold Medina ($4), and Izzy's Cheesecakes ($4.50).

Welcome back, Uncle Billy's. It's good to see you takin' it downtown!

Uncle Billy's Resto-Bar, 653 Congress Street, Portland. Tuesday-Saturday 5-c1ose, Sunday, 12-c1ose.761-5930.

APRIL 2007 PORTLAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE

 

 

 

Uncle Billy's Resto-Bar,

653 Congress Street, Portland.

Tuesday-Saturday 5-c1ose,

Sunday, 12-c1ose.

761-5930.

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